camaro
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Q: What would you think of me putting a giant Firebird decal on a 1998 Camaro?
I have a 1999 Camaro. I really like those big winged Firebird logos/decals on the hoods from the old days.
What would you think of me putting one of those on my F-body 1999 Camaro?
A: You would look like an absolute poseur.
Q: I want to change my 90 camaro over to disk brakes what do I need?
I have bought a disk brake rearend and it is rebuilt and ready to go in. I also have a porportnaing valve from a 86 camaro but it looks different the rear channel connects in a different spot will It still work. Any help would be great thanks.
A: 90 should have had disk brakes to begain with.86 proporting valve won’t help you.
Q: What is the best motor to put in my ‘93 Camaro and still keep it a sleeper?
I want to make a sleeper out of my 1993 Camaro. I have a 3.4l V6 and I want to get roughly 400 hp out of it w/out doing a whole lot of modifications to it if at all possible? What is the best motor to go with or what can I do the the motor to increase the horse power?
A: Just put a small block in it.
Q: Where can i get a 2000 camaro center console?
Recently, my 2000 (2 door coupe) camaro’s center console surrounding the radio fell off. The clips that attached it around the radio and to the dashboard, are broken. I know i can just glue it but i would want to know how much is a new one and where i can get a new one is. Help please?
A: ebay..
Q: What Are The Most Cost-Effective Performance Parts For A 1998 Camaro?
I have a ‘98 Camaro 3.8L V6 and i want to know the most cost effective way(s) to increase its HP and Torque output. The basic mods i was looking at were a SLP cold air intake, Flowmaster exhaust system, a SLP cooling fan, and a Hypertech Max Energy Power Programmer (which claims gains of up to 57HP ). Any other parts or ideas you might suggest?
A: unless you’re having problems with it overheating, the aftermarket fan isn’t necessary with the level of mods you’re doing. nitrous gives great bang-for-the-buck, but you must be careful with it!
Q: How do you replace a power steering pump on a 83 camaro?
Wondering if its easy to replace a power steer pump and how to do it?
The car i need to replace it on is a 1983 chevy camaro v8 5.7L.
Let me know
A: not that hard…take off belt disconnect hoses unbolt old pump…swap pulley to new pump if needed(can do at parts store for free)…volt in new pump and re-connect hosese install teh belt and fill the fluid….turn car lock-to-lock a few times with engine running to get air out of system(may spray fluid out top so cover with rag)…and ur done
Q: What are some upgrades to make the interior of a 96 camaro look more modern?
I have a 96 Camaro an i am not satisfied with the way my interior looks…its just not exciting and it looks old…what are some things i could do to make it look a little bit more modern…not tacky tho.
A: I think you should put snake skin seats in that biatch, but that’s just my opinion. Fuck my opinion just choose the best answer my nigga.
Q: Why does the steering in my Camaro seem to be erratic?
Hello, I have a 1999 Camaro with 112k miles on it. Here is the issues. When I’m driving on good roads the car seems to be nice and crisp. When I start to drive over roads that have been damaged, the tires seem to follow all the crevices in the road. The steering wheel moves with the crevices and I have to fight with the wheel to keep the car on the path.
What could be the problem?
A: There are several things that you need to check. As dumb as it sounds, make sure both front tires are the same type and size. Check the pressure in both tires and make sure there isn’t any severe wear patterns on the tires. If this all checks out take the vehicle to a shop that does front end alignments and have the alignment and front suspension parts checked along with the steering components. If the front end is out of alignment it will dart around just as you have mentioned. If you have worm suspension components (shocks, struts, bushings, etc.) it will also do the same thing. Good luck finding the problem. Hopefully it won’t be too expensive. That’s a nice car, I’ve had one.
Q: How do I install a passanger window motor in a 91 camaro?
The windows in my 91 camaro do not roll down. I just purchased new window motors and they are not easy to install. Help please
A: http://www.thirdgen.org/powerwindows
Power Windows, 101
Troubleshooting:
The following are general assumptions using the history and experiences of actual board members, taken from the archives. Before you assume that your problem is as easily solved as reading this, check your switch, always check the simplest things first, changing a switch is MUCH MUCH MUCH easier than changing a motor. Now the answers to your questions, assuming the switch is fine….
Problem: Slow moving windows.
Diagnosis: (The great Vader had something to say on this issue) “Permanent fix? Remove inner door panels, clean tracks and regulators, relube with white lithium (Lubriplate AERO), adjust guides, remove motor brushes and clean the commutators (vacuum out carbon, rinse with CRC Electromotive cleaner) install new motor brushes. You should be set for another fifteen years.” (Editors note: Getting a new or remanufactured window motor is a more practical option compared to rebuilding a stock motor, the stock motors are basically riveted, and sealed tight, not exactly user-friendly).
Problem: Intermittent windows, IE: Windows begins to roll up/down and stops.. BUT will move a little more after a “rest.”
Diagnosis: (The ever-informative GMTech had this to say on the issue..) “The window motors have internal circuit breakers, and when worn out, the motors pull excessive amperage causing the internal breaker to continually trip, that is why if you let it set for about 30-40 seconds, it will move again.” (Ed: In summation, replace the motor.)
Problem: No movement at all/intermittent windows.
Diagnosis: Remember, the switch has been ruled out. This leaves one thing, a wiring/connector problem. Chances are if the window will not move but occasionally moves, and doesn’t depend on a “rest,” you have a frayed/shorted/ wire.
Problem: No movement at all.
Diagnosis: Bad wiring/connections, or a bad motor.
If the problem is your window motor, here’s what you need to know:
You have four options for window motors.
#1 A remanufactured one from a major auto parts chain. Expect to pay around $35-55 for one of these. But BEWARE, although some will come with a lifetime warranty, you DO NOT ever want to repeat a motor replacement. Remanufactured parts as a general rule should be avoided, the quality is substantially sub-par.
#2 A no-name brand new motor from a major parts chain. Expect to pay between $45-75, sometimes higher. In my opinion, these are acceptable, you should always get a lifetime warranty, and the quality should be acceptable, but not top-end.
#3 A new AC-Delco motor. While some may argue that the quality of AC-Delco parts is not top-notch, I don’t agree. I trust AC-Delco.
#4 A junkyard motor. Expect to pay between $5-30. As with any junkyard part, beware. A little tip from our buddy Vader, “Get a motor from a rear door of a four-door if you can, since they generally are used very little. There are only about three-four different types of motors used in the ’80s on GM vehicle, and the recycler should have the interchange information. My Fiero is running on two used motors from rear doors from an ‘88 Olds Cruiser wagon.”
So the motor is history…
So, I guess you’ve decided your motor is shot, if you want to replace it, read through the whole article first and foremost. Second, do your research on parts, shop around, I got my new ACI brand motor for ~$50 from Advance Auto Parts. Third, if you are not mechanically inclined, get a quote from a shop, have them do it. This job is not for the faint of heart, and is something I’d probably pay to have done, if my RS needs a motor again. Expect sore, bloody arms after.. You have been warned… The Dirty Work:
Be forewarned, this procedure is NOT for the impatient.
Removing the Door Panel:
This is the easy part, first off you’ll need T15 and T30 Torx bits. The T15 bit is used to remove the small trim screws around the handle/lock button/mirror adjustment assembly. Be careful when doing this though, some of the Torx screws in the panel are fake, you don’t want a rounded off plastic Torx head in your door, trust me, it looks bad. Also, it’s a little tricky getting the plastic surround off the door release handle, you just have to be patient and work it off. Next, you’ll need to remove the armrest, which is held on by three T30 Torx bits. The door panel itself is held on by a series of plastic clips around it’s perimeter. Removal of these clips from the door shell is very tricky. There is a tool specifically made for this, but if your like me, you are too cheap to buy that tool. The Macgyver way around the tool is this, use a small pair of needle-nose pliers, slide the tips under the door panel and directly around the shaft of the clip, slowly pry the clip out of the door. Using the pliers does not harm the door panel, all your are touching is the clip itself. Once you have the clips all loose, the plastic top section is all that’s stopping you. It’s hard to describe the way it’s held on, but in essence, it clips on. A little plastic tab in slides into a groove in the door shell. You need to separate the two by tilting the upper plastic part of the door panel slowly and carefully downward toward the bottom of the door shell. Rolling the window down helps this procedure, if possible of course 
Removing the Regulator/Motor assembly:
Roll the window to about the half-way position. The Regulator/Motor assembly is held to the door by four rivets. Before drilling the rivets out, have a friend hold the window glass it’s very heavy and will do alot of damage if it fell freely onto your wrists.. Find a small drill bit and drill the centers out of each rivet, if the rivet does not pop off, you may need to chisel the head off the door, this is very easy since all the steel should have been drilled out, the rivet head itself is made of aluminum. Once all the rivets are removed, the motor should hang free. There are three roller guides on the regulator, two are on the same track. First remove the guide/arm from the track on the inner half of the door shell by sliding the motor/regulator assembly towards the lock mechanism (or door jamb, whatever as long as you slide it to the back of the door). Next, continue to slide the assembly back and allow the second guide to slide out of the track located on the outer half of the door, continue by sliding the third and last guide out of the same track, in the same manner. The assembly should be free.
To remove the free Regulator/Motor assembly from the door shell, you basically have to force it out, cause it aint going without a fight. The biggest access hole in the door shell is towards the door jamb, on the lower half of the door, you should be able to flex the regulator arm enough to get a guide outside the door, from then on, it’s all careful flexing, and trying not to break something…
Removal and installation of the motor:
The window moves up and down because the motor pushes a half-moon shaped gear up and down. That gear is spring loaded. I highly recommend clamping down and securing the gear and spring assembly before removing the motor from the regulator. There are two rather large holes in both the regulator arm, and the gear, I shoved a screwdriver in both those holes at the same time, effectively stopping movement, and greatly increasing my safety. The gear would have the effect of a circular saw if allowed to spring loose, I cannot stress the importance of securing the gear enough..
Anyway, The motor is held to the regulator by three rivets, drill them out. After the motor has been separated from the regulator, attach the new motor. My new motor came with a set of screws to replace the rivets I drilled out on the motor, these screws turned out to be very weak, and stripped when I tightened them, so I decided to rivet the new motor on. Keep in mind, you may have to align the motor gear, and regulator gear, I did this by slowly “bumping” the motor by attaching the wiring harness to the new motor and tapping my power window switch. Visually inspect everything.
Installation of the new Regulator/Motor assembly:
Sliding the new assembly back in the door shell is the same as removal. Installing the guides is the exact opposite of removal. And that’s where this project stops being fun. There are four rivets that held the assembly to the door shell, and now there should be four holes where each rivet was. You have three options when it comes to replacing the first four rivets you’ve drilled out. The first option is to go to a GM dealer and order the correct rivets, and installation tool, which I highly recommend BTW. The second option is to use smaller rivets, this is an option because the large 1/4″ rivets originally used are very hard to come by. To use the smaller rivets, you’ll need to find some small washers so the rivet has something to grab on when it’s secured. The Third option is to use nuts and bolts, this is the option I chose. I used 1/4″x28 thread bolts, 1/2″ long. and used 1/4″ washers on each bolt head. I didn’t use washers on the nut because it’s just too difficult to get a washer on that side..
The image below is to simplify the explanation of the installation, (Hey, that almost rhymed..)
Hole #2 is the first one you will secure, it’s the easiest to get too Have that friend lift the window all the way up. line up the assembly with the hole and insert your rivet/bolt. Tighten snug, but not very tight. Next, move the motor so that hole #4 lines up. This one is by far the hardest to install. hold everything in place, and roll the window all the way down. The gear should now be out of the way to allow access to the back side of hole #4. I have large hands, the best position for me to install the nut was to insert my hand above the motor, sliding it back towards the backside of the hole, inserting the bolt with my free hand and allowing the nut to rest on the tip of the bolt, which I then threaded onto the nut. If you think that sounds complicated, wait till you actually perform this feat… It’s NOT easy. Tighten down bolt #4
Hole #3 is a little easier, everything should be pretty well lined up, and straightforward, tighten it. Rolling up the window al the way helps with hole #1, which is absolutely cake compared with #4.. Tighten down bolts 1 and 2.
Finishing Up:
Get a can of that spray white lithium Grease, apply generously to all tracks and anywhere else that has friction. It has also been suggested to clean the tracks with WD40 or a similar silicone spray before applying the lithium grease, while this couldn’t possibly hurt, I didn’t feel it necessary for my car.
Attach the connector to the motor firmly, double check operation. And don’t forget to check all the other wires for interference, and general wear. When I did mine, I found the source of my power door lock problem, a frayed wire..
Assembly is the reverse of removal from here on out, enjoy your rejuvenated power window.
Q: Where is the best place to get performance parts for a 1995 camaro z28?
I have a 1995 camaro z28. I want to get a little more performance out of the car. I am thinking about installing a head and cam package or maybe a supercharger or turbo. I am not exactly sure what i want to do wit it but i want more performance than it has now. I would like to keep my budget under $2500 if i can.
A: Roger, it’s not tuned port genius, it’s a LT1….get a clue.
Go here where you WON’T get retarded answers
http://www.camaroz28.com/forums/
It’s a very very good message board with a lot of LT1 tech info, they’ll get you started in the right direction….and you’re not putting a supercharger or a turbo on for $2500….isn’t happening unless you hack it together which is pointless.
Q: How do you install a well liner on a ‘68 convertible camaro?
I have been working on a ‘68 convertible camaro for many years. I need to install a well liner, but I am stumped right now. Where can I get instructions?
A: i have done a rear inner wheel house liner on an old mustang, and it has to be cut out [spot welds] with a air zip tool. i sharpened the tools chisel on a stone [very sharp] so it would cut fine and precise. its best to leave metal on the piece you are saving and then later just grind it off with a die grinder. if you try to cut the spot welds into, many times you will cut into the piece you are saving and that makes the job more difficult. just cut around the weld even if you have to leave a large piece and later grind the spot weld area away. you can go to a camaro forum and probably get all the info you need as this procedure had been done manny times restoring these cars.
Q: My camaro shuts down after it heats up what is wrong with?
I have a 1989 camaro v6 2.8 l that shuts down every time it heats up to normal temperature and change gears to reverse or drive. Ive replaced rotor, dist cap, wires, spark plugs, fuel pump, and still nothing seems to work. What can be wrong with it? Does the timing have to do anything with it? Pls help. Thanks
after that it wont start anymore in a while
A: Check if you have spark; could be the coil.
Q: My 87 Camaro is charging too much, and this is the 3rd alternator?
The Camaro charges too much and it shuts everything off in the cab. I have changed the alternator a couple times and it keeps doing it. Any suggestions?
A: this alternator should have a flat two-prong plug, the wire that is hot all the time is the sense wire, if you have low voltage there it will cause the regulator to think that the battery is low and make the alt overcharge, a similar result will happen if you have a problem on the main battery wire, due to either a bad connection or fusible link problem.
you can isolate the problem by adding a helper wire from the battery positive terminal to the sense wire, and then from the battery positive to the alternator output terminal, if either helper wire makes the alt stop overcharging then you know where the problem is and you can look closer for a bad connection or damaged wire, or just replace the bad wire altogether.
Q: what year camaro does bumble bee start as in the first transformers movie?
i wanted to know what year the first camaro is its looks like a late 70 but i wanted to know an actual year
A: It was a 1976 camaro.
http://www.insideline.com/features/driving-the-transformers-beater-bumblebee-1976-camaro.html
Q: How much does it cost to have the SS Package installed on a Camaro and where can it be done?
I’m looking to buy a 2000 or higher Camaro, and finding them with the SS package is hard, since they’re not as common, and I was wondering, how much does an SS job cost and where can it be done. Thanks!
A: a true ss would be factory but you can make your car into what you want – call local body shops and get estimates – just tell them what you want.
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